Tuesday, May 10, 2005

Large Men, Little Silken Belts


Speaking of earthquakes, on Sunday I attended shonichi (opening day) of the Tokyo Grand Sumo Tournament, a 30-minute walk from my apartment. It was the place to be and be seen -- even living legends were in attendance. Ever wonder how sumo retirees make a Yen? Answer: they collect your admissions ticket. Just imagine handing your stub to American Hall of Famers upon entering a stadium. Unlikely, given that American-sized sporting contacts outweigh even these gargantuan athletes.

Sumo is one event where, when it comes to front row seats, buyer beware. The dohyo (ring) is two feet high and only 15 feet in diameter. Unlike boxing, no ropes separate spectators from a piece of the action. In this case, it’s a very large piece.

These guys embody human wrecking balls; sitting ringside seems about as safe as picnicking at a construction site. Averaging between 350-400 lbs., rikishi (competitors) can’t stop on a dime when being forced out of the ring. Sometimes an unlucky kimono-clad gyogi (referee) gets tangled up in the takedown, drawing “ohhs” from the crowd.

For three hours I marveled at the head-on collisions unfolding before me, but from the safety of the cheap seats. Before the belly-bashing begins, however, rituals dating to the 8th century are observed. The chiri-chozu ceremony (hand-clapping while squatting on the toes) attracts the attention of the gods. Sumo originated as a religious ceremony to pray for bountiful harvests. The thigh-slapping and buttocks-smacking must have evolved later on as warm-up scare tactics. Fleshy echoes resonated up to the portraits of past champions hanging in the rafters. Unlike women’s tennis, grunting didn't seem en vogue. My favorite ritual was the shiko (foot-stomping), which at 1.0 on the Richter scale was more than enough to drive evil spirits back underground. Yet, just to be sure, wrestlers scatter 100 lbs. of purification salt into the sand and clay ring over the course of each day.

To see stills from the big guys in battle, click here.

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

If anyone is interested, I'm the fourth sumo to the right wearing red.

Anonymous said...

I thought I recognized you!

Pretty cool event you attended Jeff. Did they have sushi and sake vendors walking up and down the stadium?

ジェフリー said...

Concessions were American-style hot dogs, hamburgers, ice cream, popcorn, and beer (but Asahi, not Budweiser). Although I think there was a cafe downstairs selling rice ball stuff. No hawkers vending foodstuffs in the arena - it might break sumo concentration through temptation.